viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2013&p=21849&hilit=trimpot+cable#p21849
I gave up on this approach but I was able to reuse the parts that I had bought. I still used the tripad stripboard to add stability and make the soldering easier. I also used the heat shrink tubing that I had purchased and the trimpots. I used the 100k Ohm pots as the 47k Ohm were too sensitive.
Here's what I came up with:
Note: the colored dots are left over from when I was trying to make the cables with the trimpots built in.
Rather than build these into the cable, I actually wired them in between the piezos and the output jack inside the drum. I used cable ties to secure the wiring bundles to my crossbars with the trimpot facing down. So when I was dialing in the HighLevel on the drum, I left off the bottom head and I could reach in with a small screwdriver and make the adjustments as needed. As soon as it was dialed in, then I could put the bottom head back on and use any old TRS quarter inch cable with no fuss at all.
Interestingly each of my drums was quite different in terms of the auto detected HighLevel. I bought my triggers from UFO drums and they are HOT!! I just barely crack open the 100k Ohm pot to get the right high level. If I'm even a quarter of the way up then I'm above 900 for the high level. I like to use the pot to settle in somewhere in the 500-600 range for the HighLevel.
For anyone debating about whether or not to build voltage dividers for hot pads I say you MUST do it. As soon as you add the voltage dividers, the drums really come alive. The dynamics are there, the adjustments for the two zone configurations just works, etc.
Dmitri really has this thing set up pretty close to perfect right out of the box with minimal tweaking needed if your drums are cooled appropriately if needed.
I found this approach to voltage dividers to be quite easy and I wired everything up inside the drums using crimp butt splice connectors so it's simple. It literally takes less than 20 minutes to do a complete drum top to bottom.
Good luck!
